Seed to Harvest Growing Guide

How to grow onions from seed

Build strong seedlings, match day length to your latitude, grow a full canopy before bulbing, and cure dry onions for dependable storage.

Start early for maximum leaf growthChoose day length for your latitudeCure thoroughly before storage
Botanical illustration showing onion seed, seedlings, mature foliage, and a cured bulbCrop family: Amaryllidaceae
SeasonCool seasonPlant early
Seed depth1/4–1/2 inchFirm, fine seedbed
SunFull sunBuild strong leaves
Spacing3–4 inchesFor full bulbs
Maturity100–120 daysVariety and climate vary

Before you begin

Day length determines whether a bulb onion succeeds.

Bulb onions begin enlarging after daylight reaches a variety-specific threshold. Short-day onions fit southern latitudes, intermediate-day types fit the middle of the country, and long-day onions fit northern gardens. Bunching onions are grown for stems and are less dependent on bulbing.

Best first decisionChoose the correct day-length class before comparing color, flavor, maturity, or storage. A healthy plant can still form a small bulb when its photoperiod is wrong.

Build your onion growing plan

Time seed starting, plan close spacing, and estimate one seed for every bulb.

Onions reward an early start, steady growth, shallow cultivation, and a dry finish.

Onions at a glance

The path from seed to stored bulb

Select any milestone to jump directly to its full instructions.

Stage 1–3

Start onion seed early and keep seedlings growing steadily

Onions grow slowly at first. Every healthy leaf supports a ring in the eventual bulb, so the goal is a sturdy transplant with a strong leaf canopy before day length triggers bulbing.

01

Choose the correct day-length class

Match the variety to latitude first, then compare color, sweetness, pungency, maturity, disease resistance, and storage.

  • Short-day onions bulb at roughly 10–12 hours of daylight and suit southern regions.
  • Intermediate-day onions bulb at roughly 12–14 hours and suit many central regions.
  • Long-day onions need about 14–16 hours and suit northern regions.
02

Sow indoors or direct sow very early

For transplants, sow about 8–12 weeks before planting out. Cover seed 1/4–1/2 inch, keep evenly moist, and provide strong light after emergence. Direct sow into a firm, finely prepared bed as soon as local soil conditions allow.

Seedling targetSturdy plants about pencil-lead thickness with several green leaves. Tops may be trimmed to about 4 inches when they become floppy, but do not cut into the newest central growth.
03

Transplant shallowly and space for bulb size

Harden seedlings mainly by gradually reducing water and exposure—not by chilling them enough to trigger bolting. Set roots into moist soil with the growing point above the soil line.

  • Space bulb onions about 3–4 inches apart; closer spacing produces smaller bulbs.
  • Leave bunching onions closer and harvest them progressively.
  • Water immediately after planting.
  • Keep cultivation shallow because onion roots stay near the surface.

Stage 4

Build leaves first, then let bulbs mature dry

Onions compete poorly with weeds and depend on steady moisture and available fertility while leaves are growing.

W

Water

Keep the shallow root zone evenly moist. Water stress reduces leaf growth and bulb size; stop regular irrigation as tops fall and bulbs mature.

F

Feed

Use a soil test. Supply nitrogen during active leaf growth, then stop late feeding so necks mature and cure properly.

K

Weed

Remove weeds early and often by hand or very shallow cultivation. Deep hoeing damages roots and reduces growth.

S

Scout

Inspect leaf folds and bases for thrips, streaking, mildew, rot, and plants that wilt without explanation.

Growth checkpoints

Know what to watch for.

Use plant development—not only the calendar—to time thinning, feeding, irrigation changes, and harvest.

Seedling tops 4–5 inches

Trim only if needed

Shorten floppy tops to keep indoor seedlings upright and improve airflow; retain healthy green tissue.

2–3 true leaves

Thin for final size

Leave 3–4 inches for full bulbs or harvest crowded plants early as green onions.

Bulbs beginning to swell

Stop heavy nitrogen

Maintain moisture, but avoid late lush growth that produces thick necks and weak storage.

Tops yellowing and falling

Prepare to cure

Reduce water, lift mature bulbs in dry weather, and protect them from rain and sunscald.

Stage 5

Diagnose onion problems early

Open a symptom to compare what you see, likely causes, and the next practical check.

Botanical drawing of onion thrips and silvery feeding streaksPestOnion thripsSilvery streaks, stippling, distorted leaves, and tiny slender insects

Look deep between leaves where thrips hide. Reduce dusty, weedy conditions, avoid water stress, preserve beneficial insects, and use a labeled control only when monitoring shows it is needed.

Botanical cutaway drawing of onion maggot larvae feeding at the bulb basePestOnion maggotSeedlings wilt or disappear and bulb bases contain cream-colored larvae

Remove affected plants, rotate away from alliums, clean up cull onions, and avoid leaving fresh undecomposed organic matter in the seed row. Once larvae are inside the plant, rescue options are limited.

Botanical drawing of onion downy mildew lesions and gray-violet sporulationDiseaseDowny mildewLong pale lesions develop gray-violet growth in cool, humid weather

Improve spacing and airflow, irrigate early enough for leaves to dry, rotate alliums, remove volunteer onions, and begin any labeled protection before disease is widespread.

Botanical drawing of a prematurely bolting bulb onion and thick internal flower stalkGrowing conditionPremature boltingA stiff central flower stalk forms before the bulb matures

Cold exposure after seedlings reach a responsive size can trigger flowering in this biennial crop. Harvest bolted onions promptly; the thick center will not cure or store like a normal bulb.

Stage 6

Harvest when tops fall, then cure completely

Storage onions are ready when most tops yellow, weaken at the neck, and fall naturally. Lift in dry weather rather than forcing still-green tops down.

  1. Lift: Loosen soil and handle bulbs gently; bruises invite decay.
  2. Cure: Dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated place for roughly 2–3 weeks until necks are tight, roots dry, and skins rustle.
  3. Store: Trim tops to 1–2 inches or braid suitable varieties. Keep only sound bulbs in cold, dry, ventilated storage.

Choose with purpose

Find the right onion seed for your latitude

These verified Shopify products represent short-, intermediate-, and long-day choices.

Questions gardeners ask

Growing onions from seed FAQ

Quick answers for day length, sowing, trimming, bulbing, curing, and storage.

When should onion seed be started indoors?

Most gardeners start seed about 8–12 weeks before outdoor planting. Earlier sowing gives slow-growing seedlings time to build leaves before transplanting.

What is the difference between short-, intermediate-, and long-day onions?

They begin bulbing at different daylight thresholds. Short-day types suit southern latitudes, intermediate-day types suit central regions, and long-day types suit northern regions.

How deep should onion seed be planted?

Cover seed about 1/4–1/2 inch. Use a fine, firm mix or seedbed and keep it evenly moist through emergence.

Should onion seedlings be trimmed?

Floppy indoor tops may be shortened to about 4 inches to improve airflow and handling. Use clean scissors and never cut into the newest central growth.

Can onion seedlings tolerate frost?

Established seedlings tolerate cool weather, but prolonged cold can damage plants or trigger bolting after they reach a responsive size. Harden mainly through gradual exposure and careful watering.

How far apart should bulb onions be planted?

Space about 3–4 inches apart for full bulbs. Closer spacing produces smaller onions; thin crowded rows early and eat the extras as green onions.

Why did my onions make small bulbs?

Common causes include the wrong day-length class, late planting, crowding, weeds, water stress, low fertility during leaf growth, or disease damage.

Why are my onions flowering?

Onions are biennials. Cold exposure can make a sufficiently developed plant behave as though winter has passed, causing a seed stalk. Bolted bulbs should be used promptly.

How much water do onions need?

Keep the shallow root zone consistently moist while leaves and bulbs are growing. Reduce and stop irrigation as tops fall so bulbs can mature and cure.

When should nitrogen feeding stop?

Stop heavy nitrogen once bulbs begin enlarging. Late lush growth can create thick necks, delayed maturity, and poor storage.

When are bulb onions ready to harvest?

Harvest when most tops yellow and fall naturally and the neck tissue softens. Lift before prolonged rain or a hard freeze.

How are onions cured for storage?

Spread them in a warm, shaded, airy place for about 2–3 weeks. They are cured when necks are completely dry, roots are dry, and outer skins feel papery.

How should cured onions be stored?

Keep sound bulbs in a cold, dry, well-ventilated place without freezing. Check regularly and use sweet, damaged, softening, or sprouting bulbs first.

Ready to plant?

Choose onion seed for your region.

Compare day length, color, flavor, maturity, storage, disease resistance, and bunching versus bulbing habits.

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